Thanksgiving – It’s All About the Gravy!

Photo courtesy of Boston.com

I love cooking on Thanksgiving – and it’s often a 2 day affair.  We of course have our traditional dishes, but I think the greater tradition in our house is to simply have an outrageous number of dishes.  And it’s especially fun because of the challenge to get everything to the table while it’s hot – often a real problem with a four burner stove, and six to eight dishes!

That’s my Thanksgiving challenge, but for most cooks, I suspect that one classic Thanksgiving staple creates as much fear as all other dishes put together – the gravy!  But it doesn’t have to be that way if you do a little planning and you know when you need to do what.  It’s really only three steps – let me walk you through it – First, a little story.

While I was in college in Westchester County, NY, I was lucky enough to work at the IBM Research Center in Yorktown Heights, washing dishes in the kitchen of what still is, for me, the best cafeteria I’ve ever seen.  If you know anything about IBM, you know they treat their employees very well, and this particular cafeteria not only employed a Swiss baker, but an Italian chef as well.  And the chef never seemed to mind the dummy dishwashers asking silly questions, like, “What’s in that giant pot at the back of the stove?”

Chef was very proud of that pot – he said it was the secret to his success – of course, it was his stock pot, and into it went every scrap of what most cooks would either throw away, or slip into a compost bin.  But Chef would never consider doing something like that.  His pot was always on the simmer, 24/7, and each morning he’d put in more water so it could keep working.  And whenever a sauce, or a flavor boost to anything, was needed, he’d dip into the pot with a big ladle and get some of his magic juice.

If Chef was with us for Thanksgiving, here’s what he’d have us do to make gravy:

Make Your Stock – Early on Thanksgiving morning, get out a medium stock pot and fill it half full of water.  Pull any saved chicken parts out of the freezer and drop them in there.  Add one, maybe two,  large whole chopped onion s(everything included!), an entire head of garlic, cut crosswise, 2 large or 3 med chopped carrots (don’t peel), and 5 stalks of chopped celery, as well as the leaves from the top, and the base of the stalks too – all chopped.  Add some chopped parsley and 3 large bay leaves, plus a Tbs of whole peppercorns.  Chop two medium whole apples for the pot too.  Bring this all to a boil, skim the foam off, and turn down to a very low simmer.  No salt yet!

Photo courtesy of smittenkitchen.com

Now, as the rest of your meal prep continues, each time you have some peelings/trimmings (potatoes, rutabaga, carrots, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, onions, etc), add them to the stock pot – As you begin to cook those vegetables that will be the side dishes for your feast, instead of throwing the cooking water away, add it to the stock pot.  And as your stock continues to simmer, stir it every hour or so – and when it gets down to about 1/3rd full, add some additional water or vegetable cooking liquid up to about 3/4s full.

As soon as your turkey is thawed enough to get the innards out, give them a quick chop into smaller pieces and add them too to the stock pot.  I don’t use the turkey liver in the stock pot due to it’s intense flavor, but you may feel differently.  Once your stock has been cooking for 5 or 6 hours, begin tasting it – initially, it will be pretty weak – but eventually, it should gain some taste – don’t add salt until the very end, because the continuing concentration of flavors will be making the stock saltier as it cooks.  If you have very little meat for flavoring, you may want to add a Tbs or two of broth concentrate such as “Better Than Bouillon” to bring the taste up, but be careful ’cause this stuff is salty – so don’t add any salt until you know if you’ll be adding anything else at the end.  Too much salt will kill your gravy.

Photo courtesy of chosenfood.wordpress.com

When your taste tells you that the stock is in good shape, strain it from the cooked veggies/meat, and set it aside – you’ll really only need 2 or 3 cups of stock to finish the gravy.  Remember, there’s no reason why you can’t continue cooking down your stock until all you have left is 2-3 cups – if you go that route, don’t consider adding any broth concentrates until the very end.

Photo courtesy of marthastewart.com

Make Your Pan Juices – The fat, juices, and bits that accumulate in the bottom of the roasting pan are the second leg of your gravy – they will bring the meaty sophistication that a gravy needs.  Remove the turkey from the roasting pan, and place it where the juices can continue to drip, because they will – later, don’t forget to add these juices to the pan drippings as you put the gravy together.  Now add a cup of hot water to the pan drippings, and using a sturdy spatula, scrape the roasted-on bits and pieces off the bottom of the pan.  Now, step back for a moment, because you have a decision to make.

Photo courtesy of marthastewart.com

Your decision is whether you want to leave the turkey fat in the gravy, or to skim it out before finishing the gravy.  One consideration is that leaving the fat in will result in a more full flavored gravy (fat = flavor), and will make the construction job a little easier.  If you don’t want the fat in your gravy, you’ll either need one of those fat separator cups (they’re the ones with the spout coming out of the bottom of the cup), or you’ll have to skim the fat off the pan juices – and that is best done with a large metal spoon and a tilted roasting pan.

Putting Your Gravy Together –  I’m a “leave the fat in the gravy” guy!  And so for me, the remaining tasks are just this easy – Add 1 Tbs of flour for each cup of liquid (stock/water) you are going to add to your gravy, and with your  whisk, stir the flour into the drippings – when they are well mixed, move the roasting pan over the largest burner on your stove and begin to heat – as it heats, slowly add the stock, whisking well all the time as it thickens.  BTW, this method works because the dry flour combines with the fats in the pan – if you skim the fats out, don’t try this – read on.

Now, if you decided not to leave the fat in your gravy, you’ll have to use an alternate way to thicken it.  After either separating the fat out of the drippings with the fat separator, or just skimming the fat off, determine the amount of liquid in your gravy, and for each cup, put 1 rounded Tbs of flour into a small bowl and add a half cup of milk or white wine – using a fork, stir the flour mixture until it is smooth and free of any lumps (use your fingers to see for sure).  Heat the remaining drippings in the roasting pan until you see bubbles – using a large whisk, begin stirring the drippings while you add the flour/milk or wine mixture – it will thicken quickly – now add the stock slowly, stirring well with the whisk all the while the gravy thickens.

Either way you’ve chosen to make your gravy, you may find that it needs a little thinning down – consider doing that by adding some sherry or port, or even a spirit such as brandy or bourbon.  For many, including myself, the gravy isn’t really finished until thusly anointed.

Photo courtesy of loavesandladles.com

If Thanksgiving is a cooking adventure for you too, I hope it includes making your gravy by way of your stock pot – if you have always been a short-cut canned chicken broth gravy maker, I hope you’ll give the rich and deep gravies of a stock base a try this year, to see what a difference they can make.

But regardless of which way you go, here’s wishing you a delicious, but not over-filling Thanksgiving.

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About drfugawe

I'm a guy with enough time to do as I please, and that my resources allow. The problem(s) are: I have 100s of interests; I have a short attention span; I have instant expectations; I'm lazy; and I'm broke. But I'm OK with all that, 'cause otherwise I'd be so busy, I'd be dead in a year.
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9 Responses to Thanksgiving – It’s All About the Gravy!

  1. Frances Quinn says:

    Your instructions are wonderful. I have been making (as did my Mother) stock for years. For my turkey gravy, I freeze the turkey legs and wings from the previous Thanksgiving and put them into cold water along with the giblets and vegetables and bring it to a simmer. When the turkey is done I pour the drippings into the stock (that has been put through cheese cloth and use a mixture of corn flour and water to thicken. Salt and pepper is added then. It always turns out delicious and my family loves my gravy. Happy Thanksgiving, Dr. from my family to yours. Really enjoy your blogs and info.

  2. drfugawe says:

    Frances,
    Thanks for your kind words – I am enjoying your visits and your comments – and it’s always great to find another stock lover! Have a wonderful holiday.
    doc

  3. Have a great Thanksgiving Doc! I’m sure there will be the most wonderful feast at your home, and with gravy like that how could it be less than perfect. Gravy was the one bit of the dinner my Dad did when we were kids…nothing like a good gravy, the soul and essence of the meal.

    • drfugawe says:

      Thanks Jo, I’m hard at work with it all at the moment – but I’d have to say it’s just great fun – however, I’ll run out of energy before long.

      You guys have a thanksgiving on a different date, right? Or No? Over here, it really is quite grounded in national tradition – so I wouldn’t be surprised to hear you folks don’t do one.

      • joanna says:

        You’re absolutely right, we don’t have Thanksgiving, unless you have American friends who invite you over..last year I was treated though by some American friends who live here, and that was where I encountered my first decent pumpkin pie, together with corn bread and a magnificent bird and other side dishes, lots of side dishes…

  4. Tupper says:

    Doc- Awesomeness exudes from your pics-just called my vegan daughter over to look at the veggies in the pot- she went, “Wow!” Me I’ve got the twiced baked sweet taters done. Gonna make a ham, some maple glazed carrots and collard greens. Saturday we go to the In-Laws for the traditional turkey dinner. It’s a marathon Doc, not a sprint! Enjoy!!!

    • drfugawe says:

      Hey Tup,
      Your Thanksgiving feast sounds deliciously good, and very Southern – where’d that come from? You realize that those pics aren’t my own – I sometimes have to “borrow” one or two cause mine don’t exist!

      Enjoy the movable feast amigo, and all those good games too.

  5. Anet says:

    Doc, hope your Thanksgiving had ended sleepily content! Today is a day of rest and leftovers, yes?
    The way you describe above to do the stock is a wonderful method. I would have never thought to just keep it simmering all day long. One thing though, does one need to add salt to the stock? Can it be added to whatever one uses the stock for later?
    I am also, a keep-the-fat-in-the-gravy type of cook.

    • drfugawe says:

      Anet,
      Appreciate your good thoughts – it was a very good day here, and I slept well – and Yes, we’ll not have to cook for the next ten days or so. Ha!

      Yes, the stock will probably need salt, but as the stock cooks down, all the resulting flavors are concentrating – and that’s just what you want for almost all flavors, but not salt! Too much concentrated salt will ruin the balance of flavors in the final stock – that’s why I suggest not adding any salt until the very end.

      Enjoy those luscious leftovers.

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